Tips on how to make your garden more drought resistant - plus, find out what else needs doing in the garden this week.

By Hannah Stephenson


Our sweltering July probably prompted many gardeners to reach for the hosepipe. In fact, according to The Royal Horticultural Society (RHS), less than 3% of the annual water consumption of an average household is estimated to be from garden use, but at peak demand times as much as 70% of water supplied may be used in gardens.

This doesn't have to be the case though. Rainwater collected in water butts, waste water from the kitchen and grey water from the bathroom can all be used to water plants.

Or, maybe, the ultimate solution is simply to create a garden that doesn't need much watering in the first place.

This doesn't mean creating a desert garden devoid of colour. Dramatic flowerbeds can easily be achieved from plants that have very low moisture and maintenance demands. Many drought-resistant plants naturally form communities of plants which all thrive in the same conditions and come from similar Mediterranean habitats.

At the front of the border you could have dwarf lavender, Sedum spectabile, lamb's ears and ornamental grass such as stipa tenuissima, while middle-sized drought-resistant plants include Echinacea purpurea 'Magnus', Erysimum 'Bowles's Mauve' (wallflower), Russian sage and Nepeta 'Six Hills Giant' (catmint).

At the back of the border you could use species more than 1.8m tall, including Cotinus coggygria 'Royal Purple', Choisya ternata (Mexican orange blossom) and Trachelospermum jasminoides.

Most drought-tolerant plants will have either aromatic leaves, fleshy and succulent leaves (which store moisture for dry spells), grey leaves, hairy leaves (which shade themselves with their own hairs), long narrow leaves (which are good at shedding heat without water), or spikes (which act as 'fins' to cool the plant).


The RHS offers these extra tips to create a more drought-resistant, but still attractive, garden:

:: Cultivate the soil deeply and dig in large quantities of organic matter to improve soil structure, water retention and water availability for plants. Well-rotted garden compost, mushroom compost, composted bark and well-rotted farmyard manure are all suitable forms of organic matter. Heavy manuring can add nearly a month's worth of water storage capacity to the soil. Loam-based potting compost doesn't dry out as quickly as peat-free composts. If using peat-free, water-retaining gels might have some benefit.

:: Apply sufficient fertiliser as plants use water most efficiently where nutrient levels are adequate. But do not apply too much fertiliser to the soil, as this can encourage too much lush growth which can flop in summer, requiring extra watering and becoming frost-damaged in winter.

:: Choose plants with grey-green or silver leaves as they reflect the sun's rays, helping to conserve moisture within the plant tissues.

:: Try to choose plants which suit the site's soil type and aspect. They will be more tolerant of varying climatic conditions as well as of pest and disease problems.

:: Plant things while they are still small. They will develop much greater resilience as they adapt to their conditions from a young age. Ideally plant in autumn so they can do some growing before dry weather arrives.

:: If planting Mediterranean plants, do so in spring when the soil is warming up. Many of these plants will suffer from root-rot if planted in autumn and become cold and damp over winter.

:: Before planting, thoroughly soak the plants in their pots in a bucket of water until the bubbles stop rising to the surface.

:: Thoroughly water in all new plants (and keep them watered in the first season after planting to ensure they establish well). Once established, they will become much more drought tolerant.

:: After planting, mulch the bed with 5-7.5cm (2-3in) of gravel or, even better, a layer of compost or straw covered with gravel, to help retain moisture while the plants establish.

:: You may decide to go without a lawn in your drought-friendly garden, but if not, you'll be pleased to know that lawns are surprisingly drought tolerant and usually recover well in the autumn rains even if they have been brown and parched most of the summer. Lawn irrigation should rarely be required, if at all, to keep the grass healthy.

:: For more information, visit www.rhs.org.uk


Best of the bunch - agapanthus

While we're on the subject of dry conditions, think about featuring some agapanthus in your garden. Producing stems bearing stunning blue or white lollipop flowers, these South African herbaceous perennials give a very welcome burst of colour in midsummer. All have strap-like leaves and generally the deciduous types are the hardier hybrids as opposed to the species, which are evergreen but often tender. They are regularly offered for sale by colour rather than variety and grow from 60-120cm (24-48in). Those labelled blue or white are usually Agapanthus campanulatus, with large heads of flowers on 90cm stems. They need a hot, sunny situation to flower and a reasonable amount of moisture during the growing season. They make excellent single subjects in containers. Use a loam-based compost with added grit in a large terracotta pot and don't repot them too frequently as they produce more flowers when pot-bound. If you're planting them in a border, they combine well with soft yellow, apricot, silver or grey plants. Good varieties include the 'Headbourne Hybrids' as they are among the hardiest. Recommended named varieties include 'Bressingham Blue'.


Good enough to eat - freezing herbs

Soft-leaved plants such as chervil, chives, coriander, dill, fennel, mint and parsley keep well when frozen.

Cut small sprigs from the plants and wash the leaves. Put the herbs in a colander and immerse in salt water for 15-30 minutes to clean them thoroughly. Rinse under running water and shake well. Pat dry with kitchen paper.

Chives should be chopped up before sprinkling on a tray or plate to open freeze, then packed into small cartons. Other herbs can be frozen in freezer bags, removed while still frozen and crunched up, then stored in containers. Crunch them up as quickly as possible, as herbs defrost rapidly.

Alternatively add herbs to water in ice-cube trays so you can extract a couple of herb ice cubes when you want to add flavour to soups and casseroles.


Three ways to... boost your lettuces

1. Site summer lettuces in light shade. During other seasons they can be planted in an open, sunny spot.

2. As seeds become dormant in hot weather, make summer sowings in the afternoon and cover them with damp newspaper for 24 hours to keep cool.

3. Mulch plants on dry soils to prevent them from bolting too early.


What to do this week

:: Check watering requirements daily. In hot, dry weather, container plants may need watering more than once a day

:: If you are saving seed from plants, check to make sure you harvest when the seeds are ripe but before they begin to shed

:: Take the last crop of cuttings this year from pinks

:: Pinch out the growing tips of fuchsias to increase the number of shoots available for cuttings

:: Top up your pond with fresh water

:: Feed tomato plants regularly

:: Make sure leafy vegetables such as lettuces and spinach, fruiting crops such as tomatoes and marrows, and beans and peas get enough water.

:: Start preparing ground for a new lawn, so that sowing or turfing can take place in September

:: Give evergreen hedges a trim to allow new growth to harden before the advent of frost

:: Unless required for aesthetic purposes, shorten stems of Jerusalem artichokes to about 30cm (12in) to reduce the risk of them blowing over

:: Sow Brompton stocks now for flowering under glass in late spring

:: Sow maincrop turnips for lifting in mid October

:: Stop outdoor tomatoes when they have set four trusses. Leave at least two leaves above the top truss to draw sap